What Everybody Needs To Know About The Different Types Of Seam

Seam Definition

A seam is the sewing line that sews two or more textiles together. They can be any material such as fabric or leather to keep them together with stitches. It is the most fundamental component of the garment. The seam line meaning is the stitching line running parallel to the seam.

Industrial-based sewing machines sew the seams in modern bulk-produced outdoor supplies, household textiles, footwear, and apparel. Knitting, dressmaking, home shoemaking, etc., use a blend of machine and hand sewing.

If you want to start a clothing brand or a sewing service, you should have a sound knowledge of seams. In garment manufacturing, there are different seam classifications.

Use of Seams in Garments

What Everybody Needs To Know About The Different Types Of Seam

Stitches are a vital component of every fabric and apparel, as they help connect materials to give an appearance to the product.

  • Different stitches help create varied looks for the garment.
  • Stitches gather the cloth and make pleats.
  • They add shape to the components, such as darts.

Seam Classes

Flat Seam – Butt Seam

The cloth edges do not overlap in Flat Seams. Manufacturers stitch them across with two needles stitching into the fabric and covering threads running back and forth between the needles on both sides without a gap. Garment producers use this seam to keep the seam line from being bulky or thick.

Bound Seam

It is the binding of the edge of one material with another. Along with the likelihood of other components in the binding, too. It looks like a French seam from the right half. Stitches are not visible on the upper half of the fabric, and it covers the cloth edges perfectly.

French seam

Apparel producers use it on light-weighted and delicate (fragile) fabrics like chiffon and organza. It uses a lot of material and can become bulky with heavier fabrics. It is ideal for clothing articles where the stitching needs not to be visible because the edges are out of sight.

Lapped Seam

It is also known as Tucked Seam. Garment producers usually use it for fabrics that do not shred, such as leather or fleece. It means to lap two cloths – the right part of the fabric facing upwards. However, it is not usual in clothing because it is a source of complications with raw edges.

Superimposed Seam

It is the most basic and typical seam manufacturer uses on apparel. Manufacturers create it by imposing the edges of two pieces of cloth on top of each other. They use various stitch types to neaten the edges, connect the materials, or perform both simultaneously.

Hairline Seam

A type of encircled stitching that garment manufacturers use for enclosed areas such as collars in a shirt. They are not out of sight from the outside. Also, to make the seam strong, you can make a top stitch over it.

Piped or Corded Seam

Manufacturers insert a cording covered in the fabric between the seam lines. Producers use this decorative stitching on home decorating fabrics, pockets, cuffs, or collars.

What Everybody Needs To Know About The Different Types Of Seam

Know What Type of Seam You Should Use

Now you are aware of a few of the various seam types available. How do you decide which one to use? You must know your goals. It would act as a good indicator for it.

Common Goals For Seaming

Hiding edges

If you need to hide the raw edges of stitching, try the following.

  • Hong Kong Finish
  • Flat-felled Seam
  • French Seam

Shaping the Apparel

  • Viennese Seam
  • Princess Seam

Use of Seams in Garments

There are two divisions of seams. One is fancy, and the other is functional.

Decorative

Decorative seams outline the apparel and give a visual appearance to it.

Channel Seam

When the user moves, the channel seam establishes an open network across a contrasting piece of cloth, revealing a flash of pattern or color.

Viennese Seam

It resembles the Princess Seam in appearance. It is a curved seam that links the front panels of apparel, emphasizing a curved figure of the body. However, unlike the Princess Seam, it starts at the armhole, not the shoulder.

Linen Seam

It uses an embroidered or decorative stitch to unite two cloth pieces at the edges. It is not especially strong but is attractive.

Hong Kong Seam

It is a finishing technique and is commonly known as Hong Kong Finish. You can bind or serge the seam edges using seam tape to give them a Hong Kong look. A contrasting color or pattern seam tape inside the garment may offer a classy touch. Unlined clothing and jackets are the most common uses of this technology.

Princess seam

It is one of the ornamental seams that can handle a lot of work. Clothing of women has Princess seams the most. They exclude the need for darts as they shape the body of the garment to a curved waistline.

What Everybody Needs To Know About The Different Types Of Seam

Apparel Creation

Most apparel has joined seams of fabric pieces. Below is a list of seams:

Inseams

They connect the parts on the insides of the trouser legs.

Front and Back seams

They join the right and left parts of the garment.

Side Seams

They link the back and front pieces of apparel.

Shoulder Seams

They bind the shoulders of the cloth together.

Quality Measures of Stitches

Although the functional or aesthetic needs determine the type of stitch, you can measure the quality of the seams depending on the factors listed below:

Seam Strength

It is the force necessary to burst apart a seam, either by breaking the sewed material or thread.

Seam Slippage Strength

It is the effort necessary to pull out a certain quantity of yarn of the opposing strands perpendicular to the seam lines.

Seam Size

It helps determine the width, length, and depth of the seam.

What Everybody Needs To Know About The Different Types Of Seam

Common Questions

What is a Welt Seam?

Garment producers stitch it with cord welting in it. Thick stitching is first done on the opposite side and then on the right side.

What is a Top Stitch Seam?

Topstitch is a stitching row on the garment top that improves the appearance while giving a finishing look to its raw edges.

What Is The Most Secure Seam?

The most solid seams are ‘Flat Felled Seams’ that have hidden raw edges and do not unravel. They have a neat finish. Thus, manufacturers use it on thick and thin fabrics both.

How Many Types of Seams Are There?

There are eight seams classes described as per ISO 4916:1991.

What Are The Two Types of Seams?

Stitches can either be closed or open. A Closed seam combines the seam inlays within the seam finish and helps it become invisible. However, an open stitch integrates the seam allowance where the fabric between the stitches and the edge of the material is visible.

What Are Examples of Seams?

  • Lapped Seam
  • Double-stitched Seam
  • Bound Seam
  • Plain Seam
  • Welt Seam
  • French Seam
  • Flat-felled Seam

Related Reading

Fabric Guide Recommendation To Start Your Clothing Brand

The fabric guide is an important tool to have when starting your journey to create products for your clothing line. The type of fabric you choose truly matters.

The right fabric plays a crucial role in creating amazing clothes. It affects the finished product’s functionality, quality, and performance, in addition to its overall style and appearance.

With a plethora of fabrics, textiles, and materials available, narrowing down your final option can surely be a daunting task.

You’ve probably heard about various fabrics (such as the ever-popular cotton), but do you know that there are different types of cotton, silk, satin, polyester, wool, linen, or even leather fabrics?

What’s more, cotton can also be used to create knit and woven fabrics or even yarns to be used for knitted items such as cardigans, sweaters, and gloves.

Sounds kind of confusing, huh? That’s why we’ve pieced together this fabric guide with an overview of the different types of fabrics and a couple of personal fabric recommendations for each clothing style and garment type.

We’ve designed it to be broken down into various clothing styles and collections so that it’ll be relevant to whatever type of apparel you are looking to create.

This way, we hope that you’ll better know how to choose your fabrics for your own collection or even when you shop for the latest threads.

But first, to get a better overview and introduction of the various materials, let’s take a look at how fabrics are made.

Fabric Guide Recommendation: The Process

Fiber To Fabric

The beginning of fabrics starts with fibers—raw materials that are first made into textile yarns and then into fabrics.

Fabric Guide Recommendation To Start Your Clothing Brand

Fibers can be broken down into three main types: natural, regenerated, and synthetic.

Fabric Guide Recommendation To Start Your Clothing Brand

Natural Fibers

List of Animal Fibers

  • Alpaca
  • Angora
  • Cashmere
  • Camel hair
  • Horsehair
  • Llama
  • Mohair
  • Qiviut
  • Silk
  • Vicuña
  • WoolYak

List of Plant Fibers

  • Abaca
  • Bamboo
  • Cotton
  • Coir
  • Flax
  • Hemp
  • Jute
  • Ramie
  • Sisal
  • Kapok

Regenerated (semi-synthetic) Fibers

List of protein fibers

  • Soybean Protein
  • Milk Casein

List of Manmade Fibers

  • Rayon
  • Acetate

Synthetic Fibers

Most polymers are similar to compounds that make up plastic, rubber, and coatings. These synthetic fibers are developed through a chemical process combining small molecules into polymers called polymerization.

List of synthetic fibers

  • Acrylic
  • Aramis
  • Nylon
  • Olefin
  • PVC
  • Polyester
  • Spandex

Common fabrics made from synthetic fibres are jacquard, denim, damask, velvet, lace, crepe, canvas fabrics, which can be used for fashion, upholstery, home decor, or swimwear.

Other commonly used fabric types:

  • Knit fabric
  • Woven fabric
  • Hides

Knit Fabric

Fabric Guide Recommendation To Start Your Clothing Brand

  • Single yarn, looped continuously to create a textile with a braided look
  • Produces common fabrics such as jerseys knits, rib knits, velour and interlock

Hides

Fabric Guide Recommendation To Start Your Clothing Brand

The term hide or skin refers to animal skins that are tanned or dried for human use. Hide includes all leathers, with and without animal hair present on the surface. Hides also sometimes include furs, which are harvested from animals with soft hair.

Leather

Skins of animals with the hair removed, treated for human use

Skins

  • From smaller animals such as sheep or goats
  • Thinner than hides

Hides

  • Skins of larger animals, such as cows
  • Skins of animals with a shoulder height of more than 1m
  • Thicker than skins

How to Use This Fabric Guide To Choose The Right Fabric

Fabric Guide Recommendation To Start Your Clothing Brand

When picking out your desired fabric, it’s important to note the properties of the fabric and how it will correlate with the garment’s design and intended use. Keep in mind the advantages and characteristics of each fabric, like texture and suitability for print, for example, and its relationship to the garment.

For example, you will want to look at fabric materials that offer breathability, stretch, and moisture-wicking properties for an activewear collection.

Likewise, if you are planning to design and launch your collection with a target audience that resides in tropical climates, look out for characteristics that would matter for the clothing. They should be cooler, breathable fabrics that will feel light and airy against the skin in the heat and humidity.

Now that you have a brief understanding and overview of fibers from our fabric guide, let’s get cracking and explore the various materials based on popular styles and collections.

Found this post about fabrics useful?

Check out our other posts on the recommended fabrics for different clothing categories:

Recommended Fabrics – Streetwear

Recommended Fabrics – Womenswear

Recommended Fabrics – Activewear

Recommended Fabrics – Kidswear

Recommended Fabrics – Swimwear 

Recommended Fabrics – Accessories

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